The spools of raw, reeled silk—called “skeins”—hold a subdued, pearlescent glow. They are strong, but still coated in the residual sericin gum, giving them a stiff, almost wiry hand-feel. They hold potential, but not yet softness. Their journey to becoming the fabric you know is a conversation between tradition and tension, between the warp and the weft.
In the weaving studio, the rhythmic clack-thump of the handloom replaces the soft hum of the reel. The warp threads are stretched taut on the loom, a vertical choir waiting for their cue. The weft thread is loaded onto the shuttle, which the weaver passes back and forth, left to right, through the “shed” (the space between the warp threads). With each pass, a beater is pulled forward to firmly press the new weft into place.
It is mathematics made physical. It is order emerging, line by line. The weaver’s feet work the pedals that lift different warp threads, her hands fly with the shuttle, her body swaying slightly with the rhythm of the work. It looks like a dance, one choreographed over thousands of years. The pattern is in her muscles as much as in her mind.
What comes off the loom is called “greige goods” (pronounced “gray”). It’s sturdy, crisp, and far from the softness you imagine. It smells faintly of the natural gum and earth. This is not the finished product; this is the bone structure.
The final magic happens in the finishing. The fabric is washed in soft, warm water, sometimes with a touch of natural soap. This process, called “degumming,” removes the last of the sericin. And as that gum washes away, something remarkable happens: the true character of the silk is revealed.
The fabric relaxes. It exhales. The threads plump up, and that legendary softness—the cool, smooth, heavy drape of 22-momme mulberry silk—emerges. The luster transitions from a hard shine to a soft, internal glow, like moonlight on water. This is the moment of revelation.
Touching the finished cloth is the period at the end of a very long, complex sentence. That sentence began with a leaf in a quiet field, wound its way through the meticulous care of generations, and found its voice in the rhythm of the loom. The cool weight you feel is the weight of that story. The smoothness is the absence of hurry. When you wrap yourself in it, you are not just wearing a fabric. You are connecting to a lineage of patience, and participating in the final, silent step where thread transcends its origins and becomes pure, comforting touch.